Product Review: Perrin Performance E4 Series Equal Length Headers

Perrin E4 Headers

I’ve been using the original Perrin Performance Equal Length Headers for over a year and I couldn’t be happier with them. Of course, when I heard that Perrin released an updated version of their headers, I had to check them out for myself. Since I’ve gone through quite a few upgrades over the last year, I decided to go with the Big Tube version.

As always, the product was perfectly packaged and arrived safely through the mail. This is a big deal to me because I’ve had so many items destroyed during the shipping process. Perrin always goes the extra mile to make sure their products are packaged well and protected.

A friend of mine recommended that I have the headers ceramic coated. While it sounded like a great option, I decided to use a titanium heat wrap again because I didn’t want to wait any longer to install the headers. I’m fairly certain that doing either will void the warranty on the headers. So make sure you are OK with that if you decide to go either route.

Here’s a photo of the finished wrap:

Wrapped headers

The installation was pretty easy. I’ll walk you through my install process, which is slightly different because I already had aftermarket headers.


  • Raise vehicle on a lift or onto jack stands
  • Remove the splash guard
  • Remove the 02 Sensor from the current headers
  • Remove the 14mm nuts (6 of them)
  • Remove the 14mm bolts (2 of them)

nuts and bolts

  • Remove the headers and discard the used gaskets
  • Place new headers onto the motor (insert new gaskets while doing this)
  • Hand tighten 14mm nuts and bolts to hold the headers in place

Note from Perrin: “The header flange that mates to the uppipe should fit very flat to the uppipe. Due to different turbos, aftermarket uppipes and installation methods, this may not line up perfectly. It’s critical for both the life of the uppipe and the header that these flanges sit flat and line up perfectly. IIf they do not line up perfectly, remove the downpipe and loosen the nuts on brackets connected to uppipe, then proceed with installation.”

  • Tighten the bolts that connect the uppipe to the headers (50-55 ft-lbs)
  • Tighten the nuts that hold the header to the head (50-55 ft-lbs)
  • Re-install the 02 Sensor (20 ft-lbs)

(I recommend using anti-seize on the head studs, 14mm bolts and 02 Sensor)

  • If you had to loosen or remove the downpipe during the install, go back and re-install
  • Once everything is tightened down, start the vehicle and check for exhaust leaks
  • If no leaks are present, re-install the splash guard and take it out for a test drive!

Note from Mitus (if you have an Oil Cooler): While test fitting the E4 series headers I found that they were making direct contact with my oil cooler lines. Make sure you check for this if you have an oil cooler! See the photo below which shows the contact with the oil cooler lines:

oil cooler lines

I had to have new lines made and routed them in a more efficient manner which allowed for more clearance. We used 90 degree fittings to direct the oil cooler lines away from the headers and provide adequate clearance.

new lines

I had the opportunity to get my car on a mustang dyno for a before/after comparison between the two headers. We weren’t tuning yet, but it at least gave an idea of the difference in power. There was an increase of 12 whp and 4 torque. I’ll be taking the car in soon for a new tune and will post again to share the final results. Thanks for reading!

Here’s a link to the headers on the Perrin Performance website if you want to check them out.

Use the discount code “BeastSTI” at checkout for a 10% discount on most Perrin products!

Product Review: Perrin Performance Gauges


     It was really exciting to find out that Perrin Performance released their new line of gauges. As much as I love my Access Port, the digital gauge options on there just weren’t doing it for me. I’ve been looking into different options for gauges and these couldn’t have come out at a better time. Of course I got all six of them, but I chose to start with boost gauge because… well, because turbo.

I was impressed with the gauge before I even got it out of the box. This is the first time I’ve seen a Perrin Performance product in something other than their signature white boxes and I must say it’s a welcomed change. The packaging is attractive and the information on the outside of the box is more than enough to quickly educate you about the gauge.

Each Perrin gauge comes with a 60mm pod, which I thought was really cool. Though my long term plans include a pillar pod and triple dash pod, having the ability to temporarily setup the gauge with the included pod was really nice. The base for the pod has several sections that are made to be cut or broken away, allowing you to choose the size of the base. Yet another really cool, but simple feature provided by Perrin.

I have seen several types of gauges that require you to run individual power and ground for each gauge. Perrin built in the ability to daisy chain the gauges so you don’t have run lines for every gauge. This is awesome because it just simplifies things and you don’t have an excessive amount of wiring to deal with.

Boost Pressure Gauge

     Installation of the Boost Pressure Gauge took roughly 90 minutes. I found the instructions provided by Perrin to be very informative, but we really only used them to view the wiring diagram. There are a few important bullet points in there so I highly suggest you review the instructions.M96818686(Boost Gauge) In The Box:

  • (1) 60mm Boost Pressure Gauge
  • (1) 60mm Gauge Pod w/ mounting hardware and double sided tape
  • (1) Gauge Controller
  • (1) 3-way vacuum connector
  • (1) Approximately 12” of vacuum hose
  • (1) Boost Sensor
  • (1) Filter
  • (1) Boost Sensor Cable
  • (1) Wire harness (power, ground, ignition & lights)
  • (1) Daisy Chain Power Cable

 Tools & supplies needed:

  • Soldering iron
  • Electrical tape
  • Clippers (or equivalent capable of cutting vacuum hose)
  • Wire stripper
  • Small zip ties (for vacuum hose)
  • Zip ties


  • First, decide where you want to mount the gauge, as this will have an impact on how you route the wiring. For my purpose, I am temporarily mounting it to the left of my gauge cluster.
  • There are multiple vacuum lines that you can connect the gauge too. I chose to use the line that runs from the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold as suggested in the instructions from Perrin.
  • I cut this vacuum line and inserted the provided “3-way vacuum connector.” It may not be necessary, but I chose to use small zip ties on all 3 sides of the connector to secure the vacuum lines.
  • From the “3-way vacuum connector” I ran a portion of the provided vacuum line toward the back of the engine bay.
  • At this point I connected the provided Filter to the vacuum line and ran another short piece of vacuum line out the other side of the Filter.
  • Next, I connected the vacuum line coming out of the backside of the filter, to the Boost Sensor. As the instructions suggest, I made sure that the sensor pointed down before I zip tied it in place.
  • Running the wire into my vehicle was fairly simple. My fender liner is cut so I was able to just reach behind it and feed the wire into the same grommet that I ran the wiring for my stereo. I made sure to pull the wire through and leave any slack on the inside of the vehicle.
  • I removed the very left side of my dash and the driver-side pillar to make it easy to run the cable to my desired location.
  • For the next part we consulted the wiring diagram included with the instructions:


  •  Once you’ve successfully connected your wires, go ahead and test that the gauges goes through its opening ceremony when you turn the key in the ignition.
  • Once you’ve confirmed that your wires are connected properly, go ahead and solder them into place, then cover them with electrical tape. Make sure that there is no solder or bare wire showing at all.
  • Choose the location you wish to mount the gauge. Bundle up any extra wiring, then securely zip tie the bundle under the dash, out of sight and out of the way.
  • Perrin provides a 60mm gauge pod with each gauge. The base of the pod has “break-away” points where you can remove excess metal and create the size base that works best for you. Test fit the empty pod to the location you have chosen and make sure that the base of the pod isn’t too large.
  • Using the provided 3m double sided tape, mount the gauge pod into position.
  • Use the provided piece of foam tap to wrap around the outside rim of the gauge. This helps ensure a secure fit when placing the gauge inside the pod.
  • Using the supplied piece of 3m tape, mount the pod control switch to your desired location on the outside edge of the gauge. Connect the control switch to the correct port on the back of the pod.
  • With the pod mounted and your gauge now securely placed inside the pod, it’s time to do one final check. Make sure that you’ve tucked away all extra wiring and replaced any parts that you had to remove to route your wiring.
  • Start up the car and check that the gauge is measuring Pressure.
  • At this point you can adjust the brightness levels for normal and night mode.

Here’s a shot of the finished install:


Fuel Pressure Gauge

     Installation of the fuel pressure gauge took approximately 45 minutes. This was significantly faster than installing the Boost Pressure Gauge because I didn’t have to run another power line. Perrin built in a piggy-back feature that allows you to tap into the power of another nearby gauge instead of running dedicated power to each. This was also easier because I already have the Perrin Performance Fuel Pressure Regulator that I could plug the sensor directly into.


(Fuel Pressure Gauge) In The Box:

  • (1) 60mm Fuel Pressure Gauge
  • (1) 60mm Gauge Pod w/ mounting hardware and double sided tape
  • (1) Gauge Controller
  • (1) Fuel Pressure Sensor
  • (1) Fuel Pressure Sensor cable
  • (1) Wire harness (power, ground, ignition & lights)
  • (1) Daisy Chain Power Cable

 Tools & supplies needed:

  • Electrical tape
  • Zip ties
  • Allen wrench (to remove 1/8th NPT threaded port on Perrin Fuel Pressure Regulator)


  • First, decide where you want to mount the gauge, as this will have an impact on how you route the wiring. For my purpose, I am temporarily mounting it to the left of my gauge cluster along with my Boost Gauge.
  • Disconnect the Fuel Pressure Regulator from it’s mounting bracket so that you can easily access the port on the bottom of it.
  • Using an allen wrench remove the fitting that currently is in 1/8th NPT threaded port
  • Connect the gauge’s Fuel Pressure Sensor to the 1/8th NPT threaded port on the bottom of the Fuel Pressure Regulator


  • Connect the Fuel Pressure Sensor cable to the Sensor
  • Decide the path that you will route the sensor cable and begin feeding the cable through
  • Re-mount the Fuel Pressure Regulator to it’s bracket
  • I ran the sensor cable around the edge of the engine bay, under the driver side front fender and through the same grommet that had the rest of my cabling
  • I removed the very left side of my dash and the driver-side pillar to make it easy to run the cable to my desired location.
  • Following the same procedure as the last gauge, I assembled the provided gauge pod and mounted it to the dash
  • Powering the gauge was simple with Perrin’s daisy-chain feature. I simple connect one side of the cable to a gauge that already has power and connect the other end to my newly installed gauge.
  • All that was left was to clean up and bundle away any excess cabling under the dash before re-installing the side pannel and pillar

Here’s a shot of the finished install:



Oil Pressure & Oil Temperature Gauges

The Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature gauges connect to the same sandwich plate adapter so I decided to install them both at the same time. The installation took roughly 2 hours to complete. I decided to use one of Perrin’s Universal Dual Gauge Pods and installed these two gauges just behind the steering wheel. In this situation I was again able to take advantage of the daisy-chain feature that Perrin built in and only had to run power to one of the two new gauges. For the Oil Filter Sandwich Plate I used one that I already had laying around from Mishimoto, but I do know that Perrin also makes the same part. I was a little intimidated by this installation at first, but once it came down to doing the work I realized it wasn’t so bad. I also took advantage of this time to do an oil change.


(Oil Pressure Gauge) In The Box:

  • (1) 60mm Oil Pressure Gauge
  • (1) 60mm Gauge Pod w/ mounting hardware and double sided tape
  • (1) Gauge Controller
  • (1) Oil Pressure Sensor
  • (1) Oil Pressure Sensor Cable
  • (1) Wire Harness (power, ground, ignition & lights)
  • (1) Daisy Chain Power Cable

(Oil Temperature Gauge) In The Box:

  • (1) 60mm Oil Temperature Gauge
  • (1) 60mm Gauge Pod w/ mounting hardware and double sided tape
  • (1) Gauge Controller
  • (1) Oil Temperature Sensor
  • (1) Oil Temperature Sensor Cable
  • (1) Wire Harness (power, ground, ignition & lights)
  • (1) Daisy Chain Power Cable

Also Used In this Installation:

Perrin Performance: Dual Gauge Pod


Perrin Performance: Oil Filter Adapter (or equivalent part)




  • I started off by installing the Perrin Dual Gauge Pod.
  • First, remove the panel from behind the steering wheel where the pod will be mounted
  • Lay down masking tape, set the pod in the position that it will be mounted and trace around the 3 mounting points onto the tape
  • Drill holes in the 3 points that you marked



  • Remove the masking tape and mount the pod securely onto the panel



  • Re-install the panel with the pod back into the vehicle



  • Once the panel is re-installed you can adjust the position of each pod, then tight the screw for each to lock the pods in place.



  • Next up is installing the oil filter adapter for the gauge sensors
  • With the vehicle raise on a lift or jack stands, remove the skid plate from the bottom of the vehicle.
  • Remove the oil filter (I chose to also do an oil change at this time and completely drained the oil)



  • Install both gauge sensors into the oil filter adapter plate. Use teflon tape or another adequate sealer to make sure you avoid any leaking.



  • Attach the appropriate mounting nut for your model vehicle to the adapter plate and install it onto the vehicle


  • Using a 26mm wrench, tighten to 20 ft/lbs
  • Attach the oil filter onto the new mounting nut

oil filter adapter

  • Make sure that the oil filter and the sensors are tightly secured before moving onto the next step.
  • At this point I refilled my oil before moving on.
  • Connect each of the sensor cables to the appropriate sensor and begin routing your cables
  • I found it helpful to put a piece of tape on the end of one of the cables so I don’t lose track of which cable is which
  • I used the same method to get the sensor cables inside the vehicle as I did on the previous gauges. These two cables left the engine bay, went behind the driver side front fender and entered through the same grommet as my other gauges.
  • I removed the very left side of my dash and the driver-side pillar to make it easy to run the cable to my desired location.
  • For the next part we consulted the wiring diagram included with the instructions to run power to one of the two new gauges:



  • Connect the appropriate sensor cable to the first gauge.
  • Once you’ve successfully connected your wires, go ahead and test that the gauges goes through its opening ceremony when you turn the key in the ignition.
  • Once you’ve confirmed that your wires are connected properly, turn off the vehicle, solder the wires into place and then cover them with electrical tape. Make sure that there is no solder or bare wire showing at all.



  • Secure the first gauge into one of the two pods
  • Connect the appropriate sensor cable to the second gauge
  • Connect the daisy chain power cable to the second gauge
  • Mount the second gauge into the pod
  • Connect the other end of the daisy chain power cable to the other pod
  • Using zip ties, clean up the cabling running to the gauges
  • I kept any extra slack bundled up under the dash and out of view
  • Start the engine again to confirm that all gauges go through their opening ceremony
  • At this time you can adjust the brightness and choose between white or red lighting.
  • I also suggest adjusting the level at which the oil pressure gauge alerts you. The default is to set off the gauge’s alarm if it drops below 20psi and I found that I regularly do this on daily driving. Follow the included instructions to adjust the level at which the alert goes off



Here’s a shot of the finished install:




Product Review: Perrin Performance Wing Stabilizers


For a very long time I’ve been jealous of 04-07 STI owners because they could use the Perrin Wing Stabilizers. I love that WRC style. Finally, Perrin released an updated version for the 11-14 STI and I couldn’t be happier. It seems like such a simple modification, but there’s a high level of detail involved if you ask me. The stabilizers fit the gap between the trunk and the wing perfectly. Once again Perrin shows off their skills by producing the quality we’ve come to expect.


Obviously there’s a style factor. These things look bad ass and you’ve got several options. You can go with 1, 2 or 3 stabilizers. Leave them black or color match them. But what about function? These things do exactly what their name says… they stabilize your wing! No more bouncing spoiler at high speeds or vibrating on bumpy roads.

Installing them was a piece of cake. Two stabilizers took me roughly 45 minutes to do.


I recommend having someone assist you with this as it will be quite difficult on your own. I also recommend having the following handy before you begin: A level (to make sure things are strait), Masking tape, Scissors, Phillip’s head screwdriver, denatured alcohol (or substitute to remove was safely) and microfiber cloths

– Each Wing Stabilizers comes with 4 strips of 3m double sided foam tape. You will only need 2 strips per stabilizer if done correctly on your first try.


– Start off by cleaning the surfaces where you’ll be installing the Wing Stabilizers. Use denatured alcohol, or a chemical that will remove wax safely. This is to ensure that the double sided tape will stick to the surface. Make sure to clean both the trunk surface and the underside of the wing.

– Lift up on the wing slightly and test fit your Wing Stabilizers. Once you have placed them in your desired position, line the outside of them with masking tape to mark the area which the stabilizer(s) will be mounted. (shown in photo below)


– Once you’ve set down your masking tape, you can remove the stabilizer(s).

– Peel off one side of the backing to the double-sided tape and apply it to the top and bottom of each Wing Stabilizer. Press firmly to ensure a tight seal is made. Trim off any excess tape.

– Here is where my personal experience differed from the instructions provided in the box. I found that once I put the double-sided tap on the stabilizer(s), I could not slip them into place. So I had to loosen then wing itself to give me enough room to slip the stabilizer(s) in. Do this simply by loosening or removing the 3 bolts underneath either side of the wing. If you have never removed the wing before there will be small plastic stickers over the screws that you must remove first.

– Carefully peel back a small portion of the double-sided tap on each side of the stabilizers (shown in the photo below)


– With the wing loose, slide the Wing Stabilizers into the locations you’ve marked with masking tape. Constantly check the stabilizer(s) with a level to ensure they are not misaligned.

– Once the stabilizer(s) are properly aligned, slowly lower the wing and re-install the 3 screws to tighten it into place.

– While holding the Wing Stabilizers in place, slowly peel the clear tape on the lower section. This will expose the tape to the trunk surface and begin the process of adhesion. Double check the alignment before moving on because you’ll have a few brief seconds to readjust if you need to.

– Repeat the previous step on the upper section of the Wing Stabilizers.

– Double check and make any minor adjustments ASAP.

– Press down firmly on the top of the wing for approximately 20-30 seconds. The Double sided tape will be 75% bonded after 2 hours and will be fully bonded after 72 hours.

Here’s a shot of what it looked like after I finished:


Product Review: Perrin Performance Cold Air Intake (WRX/STI)

M96023228There are different reasons you might find yourself modding your intake system. Some people are looking for a little power and some are looking for a little style under the hood. It’s a good thing that Perrin gave us both 🙂 . I was impressed from the moment I opened the box. One of the things I’ve come to expect from Perrin is that they always very carefully package each item and that’s really important to me. Even though the box had a rough trip through the shipping process, none of the items inside were harmed. Not only that, but it’s just a very solid part compared to my last aftermarket intake.

Dry filter

They use a “dryflow” filter, which provides the same level of protection as an oiled filter, but they require less maintenance, they are less of a mess, and have no risk of over-oiling. I’ve watched several people suffer from a dirty MAF sensor due to an oiled filter. On that note, here’s a link to a video with instructions on how to clean a dry filter:

One of my main motivators for picking up this intake was the sound. I heard it on someone’s STI and I had to have it. At low RPM it sounds relatively stock, but as you start to give it some gas the true sound of your engine comes to life. You’ll be able to clearly hear your blowoff valve. It has a definite presence, but I think it’s much more mellow then some of the other intakes I’ve come across and that’s what caught my attention.

Another big plus is that the intake is CARB approved. I live in California and that’s a big deal for me because I’d rather not get a ticket over my intake. For those of you who want to know, the EO# is: D-735 . This is the unique identifier that shows it is legal for street use.

The installation was a breeze and I found that the instructions provided in the box were very detailed. Since I already own an AccessPort, all I had to do was send an email to with my vehicles info and they sent me back a map within a couple hours. I honestly was surprised at how easy the whole process was.

Check out the before and after shots:

20150330_171002 20150404_015528


Inside the box:
  • (2) Stickers
  • Instructions
  • Warranty
  • (1) PERRIN License Plate Frame
  • All necessary hardware
  • (1) WRX / STI PERRIN Intake Mounting Bracket
  • (1) WRX / STI PERRIN Dry Intake Filter
  • (1) WRX / STI PERRIN Intake Tube

  • Disconnect the the negative terminal on your battery
  • Using a flat head screwdriver, twist and remove the two plastic screws holding the air scoop onto the car
  • Remove the hose clamp connecting the intake to the turbo inlet
  • Unplug the MAF sensor from the intake
  • Flick to two metal clips on the air-box
    • Remove the rear section of the air-box
    • Remove the intake’s rubber hose
  • Remove the 10mm nut inside the airbox
  • Remove the 10mm bolt that connects the air-box to the chassis
  • Remove the front section of the air-box from the car
  • Remove the two 10mm nuts that connect the mounting bracket for the air-box (see photo)

20150330_174203(make sure you keep the rubber mount because it will be re-used)

  • Install the bracket provided by Perrin along with the rubber mount into the threaded hole on the frame (see photos)

123455 1231354135

  • Slip the silicone coupler onto the end of the turbo inlet hose
  • Secure the coupler with one of the supplied t-bolt clamps (leave loose)
  • Remove the MAF from your stock airbox and install it onto the Perrin intake tube
  • Attach the dryflow air filter to the end of the intake tube and secure with supplied hose clamp
  • Install intake tube into silicone coupler and secure with t-bolt clamp
  • Secure the intake to the rubber mount with the supplied hardware
  • Ziptie MAF harness to the intake
  • Tighten everything down


  • Connect MAF and make sure it’s securely in place
  • Reconnect negative battery terminal
  • Place CARB sticker in a visible location on the intake tube

The installation took me roughly an hour and I found it to be fairly easy. Once completed I flashed my ECU with the map provided by Perrin. That’s it! Hope you found this useful 🙂

Product Review: Perrin Performance Sway Bars & Spherical End Links (WRX/STI)

All4If you’re looking to improve the handling on your WRX/STI, Perrin Performance Sway Bars & Spherical End Links are a great place to start. Individually, they’re great products, but together they make for an impressive upgrade. You’ll instantly notice the reduction in body roll and overall improved balance of your car.

The Sway Bars are CNC precision bent from solid 4130 chromoly steel and the bar ends are MIG welded on for perfect placement. They finish them off with that signature red powder coat for protection from corrosion. They feature centering rings that prevent movement during hard cornering. Perrin’s Sway Bars come in different sizes and each have multiple end link mounting holes to allow you to completely customize your setup.

RearSwayBar1 FrontSwayBar1

The stock End Links are small, flimsy and could fail if a larger Sway Bar was installed. Perrin’s End Links are made from adjustable male and female rod ends and stainless steel bushings. They have Teflon lined rod ends which help maintain smooth, resistance free Sway Bar motion. Take a look at the comparison below and you’ll see the difference in quality between the stock end links and the Perrin End Links, immediately.

FrontEndLinks4 RearEndLinks3

The experience driving my car after installing these parts was like night and day when comparing to how it felt before. There’s no more under-steering around corners and every movement of the steering wheel seems to have a more precise reaction on the road. I caught myself comparing it to the way an ice skate glides across the ice. It literally feels like I’m cutting up the road. I can’t wait to put them to the test in some of the upcoming AutoX events here in Southern California. I highly recommend these upgrades if you’re looking to improve the handling of your vehicle. Thank you to the guys over at Perrin Performance for these awesome products!


Inside the box:
Front Sway Bar Rear Sway Bar Front End Links (Spherical) Rear End Links (Spherical)
(1) Perrin Front sway bar (1) Perrin Rear sway bar (2) PERRIN front endlinks (2) PERRIN rear endlinks
(2) Bushings & (1) grease packet (2) Bushings & (1) grease packet All necessary hardware All necessary hardware
(1) License Plate Frame (1) License Plate Frame Warranty Instructions
Warranty Warranty Instructions Stickers
Instructions Instructions Stickers Warranty
Stickers Stickers


  • I highly suggest you have your Subaru Service Manual handy and absolutely follow the detailed instructions provided with each part, from Perrin.
  • Raise your vehicle on to jack stands or using a lift
  • Remove the stock Sway Bars and End Links
    • For the front you will need to:
      • Remove the front splashguard
      • Remove the “C” shaped under chassis brace from the chassis
      • Remove square panel from subframe
    • Front & Rear:
      • Remove the nuts securing end link to sway bar
      • Remove the nut and bolt from lower connection at control arm
      • Remove bolts securing OEM bushing bracket to chassis on each side of car

20150312_15314920150312_15315720150312_15434720150312_154404 20150312_154355

  • Install Perrin Sway Bars & End Links
    • Using the lube supplied, lubricate internal sleeves on bushings, and install bushings over sway bar. Rotate bushings around sway bar to ensure the grease covers all surfaces of bar.
    • Install OEM bushing bracket over bushing. Secure bushing bracket with OEM bolts

Front pre links

  • Install Perrin End Links into control arm
  • Install Perrin End Links into Sway Bar
    RearBeforeAfter FrontBeforeAfter
  • Re-install the front splashguard, chassis brace and square panel
  • Lower car from jack stands or lift. Road test the vehicle. If any “squeaking” is noticed, re‐grease
    bushings on the sway bars and retest

Product Review: Perrin Performance CatBack Exhaust System (2011-2015 WRX/STI)


The Perrin Performance CatBack Exhaust is a must have upgrade for your WRX or STI. It’s impressive from the moment you open the box. Immediately I noticed that Perrin carefully protected each piece to avoid damage during shipping. As I unboxed everything  I took a few moments to admire the craftsmanship. Since I’ve used quite a few different brands of exhaust, it’s easy to spot poorly made products. The Perrin Performance CatBack Exhaust is by far the highest quality exhaust I’ve had my hands on so far. You can tell that a lot of hard work went into making this superior product.

The exhaust is made entirely of 3″ diameter 304 stainless steel. This type of steel has a high resistance to corrosion and can handle temperatures of up to 1800 degrees Fahrenheit.  It’s also worth noting that they use V-band clamps to achieve that perfect exhaust connection. The V-band clamps are designed to withstand hundreds of pounds of pressure and do so without the need for a gasket.This was my first time using V-band clamps and must say I was very impressed.

The adjustable Y-pipe is another awesome feature of this exhaust. It has two slip joints which allow you to adjust the location of the muffler. I’m sure many of us know how annoying it can be to finish fitting an exhaust and find that the mufflers are lopsided or out of place. You’ll never have to worry about that again because the adjustable Y-pipe on the Perrin Performance CatBack Exhuast allows you to perfectly position your mufflers.

Perrin rounded off the package with stunning, over-sized, 3.5″ slash cut exhaust tips. They’re made of single wall brushed stainless steel and will not discolor from high temperatures. They have an aggressive look, but not so much that you’re going to attract the wrong kind of attention. It sounds absolutely amazing. There is a very low and defined rumble, but it’s not too loud. Check out the before/after pictures and video below.

before after





Inside the box you will find:

  • (2) PERRIN dual-tip mufflers
  • (1) PERRIN mid-pipe
  • (1) PERRIN adjustable y-pipe
  • All necessary hardware
  • (1) PERRIN License Plate Frame
  • Instructions
  • Stickers
  • Warranty

I do not recommend doing this on jack stands. If possible, get your car on a lift.

Remove the stock exhaust

  • Remove the two bolts behind each muffler. After removing the bolts, take off the mufflers.
    20150304_182615 20150304_182623
  • Remove the two bolts connecting the exhaust to the downpipe. After removing the bolts, take off the exhaust piping.
  • You have now finished removing the stock exhaust and are ready to install your new exhaust from Perrin.

 Installing the Perrin Performance Cat-Back Exhaust

  • Install the mid section of the exhaust with resonator to the downpipe.
  • Install the 3″ accuseal clamp to the midpipe with resonator, then slide the 3″ midpipe into the connection. You will need to simultaneously install the hanger into the rubber hanger on the chassis. Leave this loose fitting for now.
  • Slide the short tubes with flanges off of the adjustable Y-pipe and install the supplied 2.25″ accuseal clamps. Re-install the tubes with flanges to each side of the Y-pipe. Leave the clamps loose for now.
  • Install mufflers into the hangers. Use the supplied gaskets and hardware to secure the mufflers to the Y-pipe.
    20150304_194012 20150304_194023
  • With the system installed and the connections still loose, adjust the system to the desired position. After adjustments have been finalized, begin tightening blots and flanges starting from the front of the car and working toward the back of the car.
  • Tighten all bolts to 25ft-lbs of torque and V-band clamps to 75 in-lbs
  • Start the vehicle and check for any leaks before driving.